this is always my favourite part, comparing the initial sketch to the final image

pangur-and-grim

at long last, I can reveal the angel pin designs!

Cherubim - “each of the cherubim has four faces: one face was of a bull, the second the face of a human being, the third the face of a lion, the fourth of an eagle”

Seraphim “and the Seraphim had each of them six wings about them; and they were full of eyes within”

Fallen - “how you have fallen from heaven, O star of the morning, son of the dawn! You have been cut down to the earth, You who have weakened the nations!”

thought this would be interesting for people to see - the start to finish of my riosgraph Gryposaurus print! 

you’ll notice the colours in #4 match the final better than the colours of #5 - that’s because #4 is the colour sketch, and #5 is essentially a black & white stencil that’s been tinted to give me an idea of how it’ll print

with risographs, each colour must be burnt as a separate stencil (with pure black turning into a “hole” to let 100% of the ink through, dark grey letting 50% of the ink through, etc.), so what you send the printer is a psd with a grey-toned layer for each ink (in this case red, yellow, and blue)

after printing enough risographs, you get an idea of what each ink will do (ex. 50% blue + 20% yellow overlaid will make x shade of green), so working in black and white isn’t an issue

fayrek asked

Hello! I think pin making looks like a lot of fun, and was wondering if you had any advice or tales of caution if you don't mind me asking. It all feels like a 'harder than it looks' sorta thing. Thank you!

OOH yeah I have made/ CONTINUE to make a lot of mistakes:

  1. similar colours that contrast nicely on screen (ex. two shades of red) will look identical once the pin’s made, so exaggerate the contrast
  2. if you’re doing pre-orders, make sure the company you’re working with can a) give you an estimated delivery date b) gives you a way to track the progress of production or c) has a great reputation for on-time deliveries, making b unnecessary
  3. some companies lie about the package’s contents so that you don’t pay custom fees. other companies don’t - if you choose the later, be prepared for a PRICEY surprise upon delivery (just had to fork over $200 for a package from The Enamel Pin Factory)
  4. the silhouette of the pin is important. and if you’re using glow enamel, the silhouette of the glow is VERY important (i.e. make sure the glowing sections are still readable when the rest of the pin is blacked out!)
  5. don’t over detail. small areas of colour will be virtually invisible on the final pin, so either scale them up or delete them
  6. if you’re using anodized plating, make the material essential to the pin’s design. and leave a decent area of pure plating to let the anodization show - do NOT use it just for line-art (legit, what’s the point of that??)
  7. light brown/tan enamel always turns out super yellow-ish
  8. soft enamel often looks cheap/tacky, so default to hard enamel. the exception to this is when you want a more 3D look, like for scales on a snake 
  9. pins are expensive to produce, but if you have a solid sales plan you can make back that money pretty quickly. DEFINITELY don’t spend more than you can afford, but also don’t be intimidated by the price
  10. if you’re selling through social media and are reliant on hype, only order as many as you think you can sell in a month. BUT if you’re selling at conventions, ordering in bulk will make it cheaper
pangur-and-grim:
“ hey folks!
I’m trying something new - monthly Limited Edition signed & numbered prints. for September, it’s 55 eye-burning risograph renditions of my (poorly tended) backyard.
if this appeals to you, head here!
”

pangur-and-grim

hey folks!

I’m trying something new - monthly Limited Edition signed & numbered prints. for September, it’s 55 eye-burning risograph renditions of my (poorly tended) backyard.

if this appeals to you, head here!

image